Wool Service Uniforms

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M1917 Wool Service Coat
1917 Wool Service Coat

The 1917 service coat was slightly different than the 1912 pattern. Unlike the cuffs of the 1912 which had two rows of stiching, the 1917 had only one row of stitching on the cuff or none at all. Collectors claim that the 1917 was simplfied compared to the M1912, but it all depends on who was manufacturing the coats. Weaves of wool vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. This 1917 coat with a contract date of January 1918 contradicts the collector theory that 1917 coats were crudely made compared to the 1912. The contractor who made this coat obviously cared about quality. Note the distinctive cut of the pocket flaps. Also the cotton lining is finer than those encountered on other coats.

M1917 Rough Cut Wool Service Coat
1917 Wool Service Coat

This coat, dated February 1918 is often called the "rough cut" pattern because it is not as well finished as other service coats. Of all the 1917 coats, this is a true simplified pattern. The qaulity of wool is quite heavy and the coat lacks a liner.

Officer's Service Coat
Officers' Service Coat with Officers' US and Infantry Insignia

Officers were not issued unifroms and they were required to purchase their own. Thus officers would purchase uniforms from private tailors. The wool used is of better quality than the rough wool of enlisted mens' uniforms. However it was not uncommon for enlisted men to purchase privately tailored uniforms of the same quality. On the front lines, many officers would wear enlisted mens' uniforms to avoid sniper fire. The finely tailored uniform and leather leggings or privately purchased "trench boots" could alert the enemy that a soldier wearing such garb was an officer. Note the officers' braiding on the cuffs, and the three overseas service stripes on the lower left sleeve which idicates that this coat's original owner had served at least 18 months overseas.

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